Types of leather

Widely used in the manufacture of shoes, clothing, and fashion accessories, leather is renowned for its beauty and durability. An incredible number of textures, patterns, and colors are available for this material. Leather is now also highly prized for jewelry such as necklaces and earrings. To create their pieces, costume jewelry designers often use recycled leather sourced from shoe repair shops, tanneries, and luxury leather goods manufacturers. Would you like to learn more about leather and its characteristics? We invite you to discover different types of leather and some of the possible finishes.

Leather: what is it?

Genuine leather is a noble, rot-proof, and processed material derived from animal hide. Leather comes from a variety of sources: it can be from a bovine, such as a calf or cow, but it can also come from an exotic species like the python or crocodile. To obtain leather, the raw hide must be dried and preserved in salt to remove the water present in the tissues. The hide then undergoes a process called "river work," which cleans it by removing the hair and subcutaneous fat layers to facilitate tanning.

Tanning and curring

Tanning involves making the hide more supple and stronger through the application of various products. Several tanning processes are possible for producing leather.

Mineral tanning involves working the hide with mineral tannins to obtain a leather that is more or less supple.

Vegetable tanning uses natural tannins to produce vegetable leather, which is generally harder and more difficult to work with than mineral leather.

The tanned hide, prepared in industry or in a small-scale tanning business, then undergoes various mechanical and chemical treatments in order to obtain, in the end, the finished product.

After tanning, the leather is curried. Curving encompasses several complex operations that transform the material using tools and materials specific to the tannery. Sometimes performed during this stage, splitting separates the two layers of the tanned hide:

the flower, which corresponds to the surface of the epidermis on which the hairs are normally found;
the crust, which corresponds to the lower layer, often called flesh, although it is the dermis and not the flesh of the animal.

Other operations are possible, such as adding dye for color or specific products to modify the leather's suppleness. It is also during this stage that the desired thickness of the leather is achieved and evened out using the scraping technique. This process allows for a thin or thick product depending on its intended use. The leather is then dried before the finishing touches are applied.

The finishing touches

Finishing is the final stage in the product's manufacture, giving it its appearance and light or dark color. Tanned and curried hides are sorted according to their quality level. Here are some common examples you might find among the many available finishes.

Full grain: This term describes a product that undergoes no further processing after tanning. It is presented with the grain side facing out and has the natural, authentic appearance of leather. However, it requires specific care and must be waxed to maintain its beauty over time. Full grain leather can have various finishes:

Aniline leather, also known as plongé leather, is a beautiful, high-end finish. The surface and natural grain of the leather are preserved thanks to a film of oil containing aniline.

Semi-aniline finishing is similar to aniline finishing. The main difference between the two is the use of pigments in semi-aniline finishing. This provides greater protection for the product's surface.

Pigmented finishes use a significant amount of pigment to mask any minor imperfections on the leather's surface. Nappa leather is an example of a smooth, full-grain pigmented leather with a very fine texture.

Corrected grain: This refers to a product that has been lightly sanded to remove minor imperfections. The surface may be smooth or have a textured finish. The resulting product is less aesthetically pleasing than full-grain wood but easier to maintain.

Split leather: obtained by splitting the lower layer of the hide. It can be treated with pigments to make it more resistant.

Grained, satin, printed, embossed, or engraved leather: a product onto which an artificial grain, effect, or pattern has been applied. A coating may be applied beforehand to create the print. Many effects are possible: imitation fabric, fish scales, snakeskin, etc.

Sheepskin leather: the animal's hair has been retained to create a product ideal for warm clothing. Lambskin leather is often used to achieve this finish.

Suede leather: the product is turned inside out to leave the velvety inner part visible.

Boiled leather: the skin is cooked in boiling water to produce a very hard product.

Aged leather: the product is worked to obtain a surface with a worn and cracked appearance, like leather that is aging.

Oiled leather: product soaked in oil to improve its resistance and suppleness.

Nubuck: sanded grain to obtain a smooth, soft and velvety appearance, very pleasant to the touch.

The animal and the different types of leather

Here is a list of the main types of leather and their characteristics.

Bovine leather encompasses products made from the hides of cattle such as cows or bison. Cowhide, buffalo, and calfskin are among the most classic types of bovine leather. Cowhide is known for its exceptional durability. Certain calfskin leathers, like Ruga, are prized for their sheen and fine grain.

Horse leather or cordovan is a rare and special product, mainly used in the shoemaking industry.

Sheepskin leather is made from the hides of sheep, goats, and lambs. These are robust and particularly durable materials. Lambskin leather is a delicate leather with a glossy, silky appearance.

Marine leather is a term used to encompass various fish leathers such as salmon or trout. These leathers have the advantage of displaying beautiful natural, scale-like patterns.

Exotic leathers are numerous and come from various animal species around the world: snake leather, python leather, ostrich leather, lizard leather, and crocodile leather, to name a few. Shagreen leather is a shark leather with a beautiful pearly sheen. Peccary leather is made from the hide of a wild pig species native to South America.

Alternative leathers are eco-friendly leathers made from plant fibers. Many varieties are used: soy, cork, mushrooms, etc. Leather made from pineapple fibers is an example of an alternative product that can be considered eco-responsible.

The leathers used at Nune

At Nune, we are committed to using recycled leather to create our jewelry . Sourced from the luxury sector, this leather reflects our dedication to eco-responsibility. These materials are cut and assembled in our workshop to create jewelry in a variety of shapes and colors. Our selection of leather goods includes a wide range of earrings, necklaces , bracelets , and leather accessories (keychains and bag charms) that can be personalized to your liking. The Nune team is available to advise you on any of our products.